Repairing Maynard tudes with Rivets?

[WBR10654]

I have heard talk of fixing the Flash Holes of Maynard tubes with Rivets.

I did a bit of research on rivets and I found some small brass ones use for jewelry.

Who know something about this?

DPB

[RaiderANV]

Won't work. Picture this......the ENTIRE back of the brass or plastic case mates FLAT with the breech face. Now where is the rivet going to go? Any tempt to put one in will deform the brass when the action is closed. I can see the thin rims popping of the brass cases leaving you a straight walled tube after a couple shots.

[WBR10654]

I heard different Pat,,, but then again it was from one of those "Tidewater-Boys" and you know how Skirmishing at Capron kind-a screw with your mind...

[buicksp39]

I have done this with the rivets also with smith tubes, I got the rivets from a local hardware store. Since they have a hole and needs to be crimped over on the inside I made little tool with a small point and rounded side to crimp them on. I didn't have a lathe I ground the point and used a drill to evenly smooth it up. place the rivet in the tube turn it up and hammer with a light tap and it folded down great, i did it on a lead bar so it would not ruin the point, I have never burned one out yet, I bought 500 of the rivets for about $9 a few years ago, mine are brass

[RaiderANV]

I heard different Pat,,, but then again it was from one of those "Tidewater-Boys" and you know how Skirmishing at Capron kind-a screw with your mind...

I reckon there are folks that will try anything(myself included) and maybe some of them will know what they are doing or understand that which they attempt. You just CANT add a rivet to the rear of Maynard case and still have the rear of case mate flat with the rear of the breech face period. The barrel is pressing that case back against the breech face and the breech face will be press the rivet forward deforming the case slightly. This is enough to pop the thin rim off after a few shots leaving you a straight walled tube.

The head space on the carbine is the thickness of the case rim. You are not only putting pressure on the cases but also in the hinge pin and hinge pin hole on the barrel helping to stretch the whole works increasing the headspace hence gas leakage. There are many ways to do things and a few work.....this is not one of them least you'll be making more expensive repairs to the carbine later. Now if it were say..... A starr carbine I'd say go for it. Can't hurt a boat anchor much.....

[WBR10654]

Pat,

I understand your concerns...

My thought was (without actually doing it) when visualizing it was:

That you take a bit off of the rivet where it meets the breach.

That the "soft" brass at the end of the brass would bend in a bit it and would not matter as long as the spark made it in the chamber of the cartridge.

I used to run a manufacturing company and know a bit about fastners...

BUT... there has got to be a better way than paying three (3) bucks for a case.


DPB

[Rob FreemanWBR]

Best just to make the investment and buy yourself a new batch of brass.

Ensure to size each and every case, some may be off. Each case should simply drop into the breech. If they don't or you have to exert much effort to extract them/it, separate it/them from those that you intend to buy.

It may seem tedious (much of this sport is) put it pays off in spades with speed in reloading during the heat of a match, and accuracy with using uniform brass that's been fire formed to your specific piece.

Next and as equally important in all this - do NOT, REPEAT NOT "open" the cases' touch holes AT ALL. The manufactured touch holes work perfectly well, and if you go messing around with what already works your wasting time and money by ruining your Maynard brass!! Plus doing so will also end up hurting your carbine - so don't do it!

As for rivets, I've seen it done on the old white plastic/nylon Smith tubes, but not Maynard brass.

[RaiderANV]

I forgot to mention the size of the flash hole directly relates to the speed in which it burns out in the breech face and starts to resemble a funnel. Then your accuracy will drop off. Cases last a long long time and as much as we put into our sport/hobby I can't see shortcut no matter how well intended when the possibility of damaging the arm is present.

PS......we REALLY NEED a LIKE button so you can click it on posts like Robs above!

[Mike McDaniel]

Next and as equally important in all this - do NOT, REPEAT NOT "open" the cases' touch holes AT ALL. The manufactured touch holes work perfectly well, and if you go messing around with what already works your wasting time and money by ruining your Maynard brass!! Plus doing so will also end up hurting your carbine - so don't do it!.
IF the toucholes were drilled on center. I've found half of them aren't.

[John Bly]

PJ, I'm surprised at you. The Maynard lockup is the barrel lugs in contact with the frame. There is no stress on the barrel pivot screw. The hole in the barrel is elongated to ensure that the lockup only happens at the lug/frame interface. 1st Mods are slotted all the way thru the front barrel lug. This should certainly prove my point.

[RaiderANV]

Yes Sir Bly you are correct for the most part. When you put forward pressure on the case by a rivet in the back of it pushing forward you get to the back of the elongated slot.....in my less knowledgeable opinion. This can only cause problems. I've shimmed many a barrel by placing the rim section of a reduced Maynard case in the elongated slot to tightening the headspace. When the gun firesthe barrel wants to move forward.