Brass Seal In Starr Carbine

[Hal]

My wife just bought a Starr Carbine. From what we have read, there is supposed to be a brass ring or seal of some sort either in the breech block or on the rear end of the barrel. I do not see one in either place. The breech seems to close up pretty tight with little perceptible movement in the breech block when closed. The barrel has a thin cone shaped extension that mates to a ring cut in the breech block. My guess is that the brass seal used to fit down in that ring that is cut out in the breech block. Am I getting warm? Does anyone have any pictures of one they could share?

I've also read that some people use a some sort of Teflon to replace the brass. Anybody familiar with that? I'm imagining something like a thin Teflon string type plumbing packing, but I'm not sure. Are there any repro seals made? Is it something I can make myself?

Thanks,

Hal

[Richard Hill]

I've never seen anything on a brass ring sealing piece. What I use is a square-section O-ring backed by a strip of plastic from the hobby shop. The O-ring is 1.5 mm square by 16 mm ID http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3542/=13s4cl9, and the plastic is a strip that is just wide enough to fit in the annular groove and long enough to be bent into a ring to back the O-ring. The plastic needs to be of a thickness so the breech will close with firm, but not hard, pressure on the lever. Too thick and the breech will not close or it will be VERY difficult to open. Sand the plastic ring until it's about right.

[John Holland]

Original Starr percussion Carbines did not use any brass to seal the breech. What you have now is exactly how it was made.

[Hal]

John,

If that's the case, I think I will fire it as is and see what happens. If it leaks excessively, I will try Richard's fix.

She got this thing at a show in Atlanta last weekend. I didn't notice until after we got home, but there is a crack in the hammer. I have a repro on order for her. Hopefully, it will fit OK. Gonna try the Christmas Tree bullet she uses in her Sharps, but fully expect to have to buy a larger mold. Can't do anything until the hammer comes. I'm afraid for her to shoot it until we get that fixed. It may last another 5000 rounds or it could break in half on the next shot. I imagine there would be a nasty jet of gas coming out the nipple if the hammer weren't there to keep the cap on.

Thanks guys,

Hal

[Richard Hill]

The original bullet was similar to the Sharps, but with only two diameters. The largest one is .560. If you shoot it as is, check the sealing surfaces for clinkers after every shot. Dirty sealing surfaces will allow gas cutting to take hold VERY quickly. Or use the O-ring.

[ms3635v]

A teammate is shooting a Starr and he has had no issues with gas leakage. The bullet is a Rapine design that looks like the Sharps Christmas tree bullet. The bottom driving band is .560" in diameter. He uses Charlie Hahn's cardboard tubes and a powder charge somewhere around 28 or 29 grains of 3F. The carbine is very accurate.

[Dave Fox]

I've had good luck with a Rapine Burnside bullet. Alas, Charlie's tubes won't work with it and I have to roll my own cartridges. Helpful hint using Charlie's tubes: I split a percentage of them seating a Sharps bullet. Discovered slightly chamfering (beveling) the bullet base by bumping it in .45 sizer die allows the bullet to seat in the cardboard tube without issues.

[ms3635v]

Dave,

What Sharps bullet are you using that splits Charlie's tubes? I have both a Moose and a Lyman and both go in the tube with a slight twist and no split.

[Dave Fox]

Old Rapine ringtail.