Sharps fouling solutions

[Cannonman1]

I have a Shiloh and a Garrett Sharps .. Both 63 models and like a lot of these, suffer some fouling after shooting a few rounds. Enough to cause the breech to become difficult to operate. I have read about Mr. Hahn's modifications but short of that, what are the ways to make things operate better and for longer. I have read about cutting toilet gaskets in half and using them to adding an O ring.. All are touted as working for a while -- Say 40 rounds or so and then needing replacement. What works the best??
What powder works best.. Does it make a difference if one cuts the back off the cartridge or makes it so that is not needed?
Note.. The Shiloh has been shot alot and I am replacing the gas seal (cutting plate) with a new one in a week or so..

Thanks in advance
Bill

[Greg Ogdan 110th OVI]

Make your cartridges so that the breech block does not have to cut off the tail of the round. Grease the snot out of EVERYTHING around the breech block and receiver. Done properly, you should be able to shoot many, many rounds without fouling issues.

Greg

[jonk]

Order a tube of extreme pressure grease from McMaster Carr. Part no. 1392K31. Recommended by Charlie for greasing the sharps, it's all I use.

Remove the chamber sleeve if yours has one and coat it in this stuff. Fill the breech block recess (being careful not to block the flash hole) with it. Coat the front and sides of the block with it.

Before I went that route, I too would have it seize up after 20, 30 rounds. Now I can (and have) go 200 and the last round is as smooth as the first.

The exterior of the gun will still foul and you may have to scrub off residue from around the nipple, but this stuff is the cat's meow. I had tried white lithium and synthetic wheel bearing greases before, and while both worked to an extent, not nearly as well.

[Don Dixon]

In addition to the high temperature grease, use Swiss powder. It burns MUCH cleaner.

Regards,
Don Dixon

[Kevin Tinny]

Order a tube of extreme pressure grease from McMaster Carr. Part no. 1392K31. Recommended by Charlie for greasing the sharps, it's all I use.

Remove the chamber sleeve if yours has one and coat it in this stuff. Fill the breech block recess (being careful not to block the flash hole) with it. Coat the front and sides of the block with it.

Before I went that route, I too would have it seize up after 20, 30 rounds. Now I can (and have) go 200 and the last round is as smooth as the first.

The exterior of the gun will still foul and you may have to scrub off residue from around the nipple, but this stuff is the cat's meow. I had tried white lithium and synthetic wheel bearing greases before, and while both worked to an extent, not nearly as well.

Hello:
Bought this stuff a while back based upon comments here. I trust Mr. Hahn.

It works!
Slicked up a sticky, balky feeding Spencer and it cycled loaded rounds as if they weren't even being fed. Remarkable

BUT, it has an interesting characteristic, namely apparent water solubility.
I got a bunch on my hands once and it easily washed off them in warm water.

Someone once told me that some "greases" are little more than soap-based.

Fascinating stuff.

By the way, it could be that Mcm-Carr has it privately labelled for them. The current internet page description indicates it is green on color. Mine, from a sealed tube, is dark brown/crimson.

Anyone know more, please? Thanks.

Respectfully,

Kevin Tinny

[Cannonman1]

This is great stuff... I will get some McMasters and lube the "snot out of her".. I used a bearing grease.. black in a large tube and it started getting stiff after 3 rounds..

Thanks
Bill

[P.Altland]

If you don't address the fit of the gas check plate to the breech face, no amount of grease will help. That is all the o-ring job and split breech sleeve are doing. It compensates for a receiver and breech block that aren't square and true.
Once you have the new plate, put a light coat of grease on the face and reinstall it in the receiver. Open and close a few times, remove and look at the pattern the breech face leaves in the grease. If the two surfaces aren't mating flat shim the sides of the gas check plate with foil. Each layer is .001"
Repeat the process until the two surfaces are mating squarely and problem is solved.


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