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View Full Version : Finally figured out pouring RCBS-Hodgdon with no voids.



Maillemaker
07-20-2015, 04:03 PM
When I first got into casting bullets for modern guns, I read that some people preferred to pour the lead such that it struck on the bevel of the inlet hole in the sprue plate, so that the lead would "spiral" into the mold rather than pouring directly into the mold.

I decided to try this with my RCBS-Hodgdon mold. It worked perfectly.

If I try to pour directly into the mold (I'm using a bottom-pour pot), invariably this caused a void at the apex of the conical insert that forms the hollow cavity of the bullet. To mitigate this, I used to pour holding the mold at an angle, so that the lead would drop down to the skirt rather than impinging on the point of the cone.

But recently I started holding the mold straight, but letting the lead pour strike the sprue plate rather than bullseye the hole into the mold.

The result has been 100% no voids. Last weekend I cast probably 100 or so bullets and not a single one had a void. I simply let the lead steam impinge on the conical bevel of the sprue plate hole before it falls down into the mold.

Steve

Ron/The Old Reb
07-20-2015, 05:14 PM
I have been casting my own bullets and Minnie's since the early sixty's and have over two dozen molds. If there is one thing that I have learned it's that each mold has its own personality and you have to find what it likes and what it doesn't like. You have to play around with them to get them to though good bullets. It's like finding the sweet spot on a good target rifle. I have molds that like the lead pored on the bevel as Millemaker described. I have some molds that like the lead pored directly into the mold. Ones that like the spur plate jammed up into the pore spout of a bottom pore pot and ones that like a little puddle of led run on the spur plate . After you find what each mold likes make a note and keep it with the mold. It's a fun hobby if you don't go nuts.

Rob FreemanWBR
07-20-2015, 11:32 PM
Ron's spot on! Couldn't have written any better.

Congrats grasshopper on finally being able to snatch the pebble from the blind master's hand...

Just another facet of our beloved sport that makes it more of an art than science!

John Holland
07-20-2015, 11:41 PM
The late Tony Bagdon, who had influence in the design of the bullet, said "You have to swirl the lead into the mould to get the bullet to cast properly." And that was a LONG time ago!

Charlie Hahn
07-27-2015, 04:31 PM
Thanks Steve!

Sometimes you get to close to the problem. I have had a couple troubled moulds. I made the small adjustment and it worked. Now if I can find all those other moulds I threw out back;o)

Charlie Hahn

Maillemaker
07-27-2015, 10:49 PM
The late Tony Bagdon, who had influence in the design of the bullet, said "You have to swirl the lead into the mould to get the bullet to cast properly." And that was a LONG time ago!

I knew it! :)

See I've only been at this 3 years. I suspect this is one of those things where everyone else has forgotten more than I currently know.

Steve

Kevin Tinny
07-28-2015, 06:05 AM
This is amazing info.

In over fifty years of casting bullets, I've heard of and tried many techniques, but swirling in a new one for me. Have never seen it mentioned in casting manuals and other authoritative books, such as the NRA's CAST BULLETS and CAST BULLETS SUPPLIMENT. Before I mess-up, would someone that has successfully tried "swirling" please describe for us, HOW it is performed, please? Thanks.

Respectfully,
Kevin Tinny

Ron/The Old Reb
07-28-2015, 07:14 AM
" I suspect this is one of those things where everyone else has forgotten more than I currently know."


This why I make myself notes. But then I forget where I put the note.

Maillemaker
07-28-2015, 04:04 PM
In over fifty years of casting bullets, I've heard of and tried many techniques, but swirling in a new one for me. Have never seen it mentioned in casting manuals and other authoritative books, such as the NRA's CAST BULLETS and CAST BULLETS SUPPLIMENT. Before I mess-up, would someone that has successfully tried "swirling" please describe for us, HOW it is performed, please? Thanks.

I know that I read it, but I can't remember where.

It's more of a "splash" than a "swirl".

The idea is when the lead pours out of the bottom of the pot, don't let it go straight into the hole. Instead, let the stream of lead impinge on the sprue cutting plate and then fall down the beveled hole. You can either hit the bevel itself or the flat right next to it. The lead then sloshes into the mold instead of going down in a straight shot.

I suspect it has something to do with the molten lead hitting directly on the apex of the cone making the hollow cavity. It does not like that for some reason.

Originally I solved the problem by tilting the mold at about a 40 degree angle, but often the lead would hit the sprue plate and splash right out of the mold. This way of tilting at just a very slight angle to get the lead to slide down the hole is much easier to do consistently.

Steve

jonk
08-02-2015, 10:48 PM
Just goes to show how each mold- even of the same type- has it's quirks. My Hodgdon likes the spout pressed right up against the sprue plate. Swirling, pouring onto the plate, directly in, 50% rejects. Spout against the plate, 2% rejects.

Kevin Tinny
08-03-2015, 06:46 AM
Thanks for the additional info:

One thing shared with me while Col Harrison was preparing the CAST BULLET HANDBOOK was that most sprue plates have too small an opening, even if it roughly matches the pot/ ladle orifice. He advised to buy a 45 degree cutter (Brownell's") and open the plate opening in 1/16" steps until fillout was achieved. This worrked in several custom molds of mine. The other thing that helped was to be SURE the mold was truly hot enough. He advised starting too hot so frosted bullets, if using an alloy, appeared. And to literally dip the mold edges in the alloy to bring it up to temp. Then, with the mold truly hot, cast about ten as fast as possible and evaluate fillout. If ok, the pot temp can be reduced. Finally, he said a stainless steel sprue plate can be installed. Generally, SS absorbs less of the molten metal's heat. But, it may require spilling/running extra metal over it to keep it hot for base edge fillout of the next casting.

Regards,
Kevin Tinny