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Thread: Remington 1858 New Army

  1. #21
    Ron/The Old Reb Guest
    Curt
    "I don't think whacking on a sprue cutter with a heavy dowel should have damaged things"

    This is he best way to destroy a mold. never hit the sprue cutter or the mold it self in any way. Whack the handle joint.


    When my son joined the NSSA I gave him one of my molds to make bullets. I walked out to the shed to see how he was making out. He was whacking the Hell out of the mold to make the bullets drop out.

    Needless to say I adjusted his butt to a new location on his back.

  2. #22
    Curt's Avatar
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    Hi!

    "This is he best way to destroy a mold. never hit the sprue cutter or the mold it self in any way. Whack the handle joint."

    I am not clear on what you are saying?

    I have cast about 50,000 bullets and balls. I had always given the "handle joint" a light tap when the balls sometimes did not fall from the candle sooted mold cavity. But I am not clear on how one would slice the sprue off with the cutter without whacking its "tab?"

    I had tried, and I forget who makes it "Uncle Mike's' maybe (?), but they offer an ball type attachment for the sprue cutter on molds that creates leverage enough when you push it to shear off the sprue.. but went back to a tap from the dowel.

    Anyways, how does whacking the handle joint cut the sprues?

    Thanks!

    Curt
    Curt Schmidt
    Formerly 17 years a Sherman's Bodyguard
    Married to a descendant of Senator John Sherman's wife

  3. #23
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    Curt and others are right, striking the mould itself to drop/eject a freshly cast projectile is a huge "no no" - unless one likes to buy moulds on a regular basis...

    Personally, I do don't even like to strike the sprue "flange" when casting the first few rounds out of a cold mould. If I have to, in those situations, I use a rubber mallet, and take care to only aim on the flange, NOT the mould itself.

    Of note to share: When it comes to casting those "sold on TV"-type Oven Gloves have really sped up casting rates for me. They work GREAT in allowing me to directly manipulate/man handle the moulds while casting!! Once the mould is hot, the spur cutter on the mould can be swung/pivoted very quickly & easily by an Oven-Gloved-hand.

    Yes projectiles do get stuck in the moulds, even when hot. In those instances a small "love tap" via the rubber mallet - applied only to the HANDLE'S joint is all that is needed, but never to the mould body itself.

    If available, before getting the mould hot, a small dose of any mould prep application helps a great deal in getting cast rounds to literally fall out of the mould.
    Semper Fi,
    Rob Freeman
    Col, USMC (Ret.)
    1987-2019

    The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor. - Vince Lombardi

  4. #24
    Curt's Avatar
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    Hallo!

    "Ov Gloves!"

    I always use relatively heavy leather work gloves. Thanks for the tip, I will give them a try!
    As well as a rubber mallet, just to see. Since switching over to steel block molds, they are perfectly fine even after 35 years (except for replacing the wooden base pin handles due to scorching every so many decades. .
    But I do have some revolver conical molds that are aluminum, so I will give it a try.

    Thanks!!

    Curt
    Curt Schmidt
    Formerly 17 years a Sherman's Bodyguard
    Married to a descendant of Senator John Sherman's wife

  5. #25
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    You should never hit the mold to make the bullets drop out. Hit the pivot point.

    But I do hit the sprue cutter with a leather-wrapped wooden dowel to cut the sprue.

    Some people wear a glove and push the cutter with their hand.

    Steve

  6. #26
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    Buying New Molds

    Hello all, and thank you for your interest and comments. At this point, I am basically set on getting a Lyman mold. I use them to cast all of my other rounds, and have good experience with them. At this point, my question is should I go with a .454" or .457" ball?
    I will also give the Lee mold another try, but will use a higher temperature. And be more cautious in my loading of the weapon.

  7. #27
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    At this point, my question is should I go with a .454" or .457" ball?
    It depends entirely on the firearm. When you drive the ball into the chamber, it should shave a tiny ring of lead all the way around the ball. This is how you know you have a press fit of the ball in the chamber.

    Once you achieve this ring, any larger a size ball just makes it harder to load.

    Steve

  8. #28
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    Hi!

    Steve...

    May I tap into your knowledge of mail please?

    Wetzel1781@Gmail.com

    Curt
    Curt Schmidt
    Formerly 17 years a Sherman's Bodyguard
    Married to a descendant of Senator John Sherman's wife

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