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Thread: Trigger Work?

  1. #1
    mb3 is offline
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    Trigger Work?

    For you guys who shoot in competition: What measures do you take to tune up your trigger/ lock work, to make your rifle competition ready. I would like a couple of secrets to help smooth out or lighten up the trigger action in a CW reproduction rifle.

  2. #2
    Southron Sr. is offline
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    Re: Trigger Work?

    1. Remove your lock from your Richmond.

    2. (a.) Pull the hammer to "Full Cock." (b) Use either a piar of Vise Grip Pliers or a small adjustable wrench and place the jaws of same on the compressed Main Spring. (c) Gently release the sear and move the hammer forward. The pliers or wrench will keep the Main Spring compressed and you can carefully remove it from the lock.

    3.Using a screwdriver that fits the slots in your screws, unscrew the sear spring screw and remove it from the lock.

    4. Now by taking a few more screws loose, you can completely disassemble your lock. (Remember or take notes to where every screw goes!)KEEP ALL YOUR PARTS TOGETHER IN A BOX-DON'T LOSE ANY OF THEM!

    6. Go to your local hardware store and purchase two sheets of: 400 Grit Emery Paper, 600 Grit Emery Paper, 1500 Grit Emery Paper.

    7. Start with the 400 Grit paper. Wrap it around a small piece (smaller than the lockplate) flat piece of steel and start polishing the INSIDE of your lock plate. Then move to the 600 Grit and finally to the 1500 Grit. After many, many house of polishing you will have the inside of your lock plate LOOKING LIKE A MIRROR! I generally keep polishing until I can see my face in the inside of the lock plate.

    What has been accomplished is that now the inside of your lock plate is much, much smoother. This will reduce the friction when your lock is cycled and DECREASE your lock time. All of this is GOOD!

    8. Now look at those pieces of your lock mechanism that touch the insde of the lock plate and likewise polish those surfaces. Remember, you are reducing your lock time and at the same time reducing your trigger pull weight.

    9. You can now carefully grind away a bit from the outside of your Sear Spring. This too will reduce your "Trigger Pull Weight." Do not allow your trigger pull to fall below three pounds! This is N-SSA Regs and just plain good sense for safety.

    10. Re-assemble your lock and lubricate it with a good grade of gun oil. You will probably be suprised how much better your lock functions.

    You will note that I didn't say anything about polishing the nose of your sear or any of the hammer notches in your tumbler. This is always a "last resort" and to be done only by a gunsmith that knows what he is doing.

    It is all to easy to change the angles while attempting to "stone" or "polish" these surfaces and you can end up with a trigger pull that is way too light or conversely, changes from light to heavy unexpectedly because the case hardened "skin" covering these parts has been inadvertently removed.

    For best accuracy, when you shoot your Richmond, make sure that the tang screw is TIGHT.

    GOOD LUCK!

  3. #3
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    Re: Trigger Work?

    Rob Lewis at Tri-L Machine is the keeper of those secrets.
    First Cousin (7 times removed) to Brigadier General Stand Watie (1806-1871), CSA
    1st Cherokee Mounted Rifles | Principal Chief of the Cherokee Nation 1862-66

  4. #4
    mb3 is offline
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    Re: Trigger Work?

    Southron,
    Thank you for the tip. I followed your instructions and took my lock work apart. I polished all the internal surfaces very well, and I am pleased with how smooth my trigger is. I ground a very small amount off the sear spring, but I did not notice much of a change. I will get a spare spring and experiment with the trigger pull. Thank you for your help.

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