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Thread: smoothbore accuracy

  1. #21
    Steve Weems is offline
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    Dog bone tubes?

    Quote Originally Posted by gjwarren View Post
    Never had anything but bad results with alox and black powder. I rough my SB balls with 2 farrier raps after filing off sprue. Learned from Dom (RIP) to rough em up alot and simply use axel grease for lube. I can shoot my .710 roughed, greased ball in my Potsdam all day with no problem. Fast, easy, accurate & not as messy as you'd think, but I use 'dog bone' double ended tubes, one end powder, one end ball, so there is no wasted powder on the ball. Using musket lube, I had the problem you described loading hard last 2 inches & wasting a shot.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Where do you get the “Dog Bone” tubes.

  2. #22
    bobanderson is offline
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    I got a PM from 44th Ga Tom and replied the same way, but then thought the comments would be helpful to others. Seems like smoothbores have become the most talked about toy on the forum in the last couple of years.

    Anyways, here’s the text from my PM...

    Re: smoothbore accuracy
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom
    Bob,

    I went Monday to practice with my smoothbore. I could not get any Old Eynsford but got some Goex 3f. I tried out some of the things you mentioned in my post. I put a single coat of lube on some roughed up round balls and shot 15 rounds. I hit an 8 inch circle 50 yards away 12 out of 15 times, pretty good for my smoothbore. I think the three I missed were because of one or two things - the bore got crunchy after 9 rounds shot and/or the rounds could have also been undersized. After 5 shots I used a bore brush but did not use wet/dry patches to remove extra fouling. Thanks again. I wish I could practice more but must go to a skirmish this week. All the best

    Tom
    3f Goex is made with a different charcoal which is why you get crunchy. When they developed Old Eynsford (originally called Express) they went for higher velocity and softer fouling.
    As I said, in my testing, Swiss created a fouling ring near the breech and Goex 3f about 4” from the muzzle. I’m convinced alox contributes to those fouled spots. It will take a real leap of faith to shoot the balls dry, but once you get the combination of size and powder charge right, you won’t regret it.
    Here’s my drill again.
    I cast hard lead round balls from an Elka round ball mould. I rougn them between 2 farrrier’s files until they pass with very little resistance through a short section of Hoyt barrel that measures .687 to match my H&P and my Type 1 Macon smoothbore. Once gauged, they go into the tube dry. My powder charge for both guns is 45 grains of Goex Express 3f. (I bought a ton of it when it was discontinued. Mr. Venskoske told me the new powder, Old Eynsford, is the same thing.) I do bump the powder charge to 50 grains when I use the Macon at 50 yards.
    I have the Macon because my 15 year old grandson shoots with me on the 1st Michigan. My weapon of choice is the H&P, but the Macon loads faster and shoots almost as well.
    One last tip. If you need to brush, use the “tornado style” twisted stainless steel brush instead of the straight bristle ones. It seems to clean better which should get you longer strings.
    Good luck.
    Bob Anderson
    Ordnance Sergeant
    Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
    Small Arms Committee

    "I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
    I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
    - John Wayne in "The Shootist", 1976

  3. #23
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    I was able to squeeze one more trip to the range. Shot at 50 yards, roughed up rounds, one coat of lube, Goex 3f. 15 out of 15 in an 8 inch circle. Hope to do it again soon!!

  4. #24
    ms3635v's Avatar
    ms3635v is offline
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    No John, I use one wet patch then dry patches. I never really liked using brushes because, at least to me, it just re-arranges the fouling in the barrel.
    Mike Santarelli 03635V
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    Co. B, 1st Pennsylvania Cavalry, #229
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    Member since 1979

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