Would musket lube be better?
Would musket lube be better?
Last edited by Tom; 02-14-2018 at 11:48 AM.
Try doing what you are doin BUT after the wood, assemble the rounds. Then use case to triple dip in MCM lube
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
Not wood but wood. Dang auto correct
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
Alox, Alox Alox
Lou Lou Lou Ruggiero
Tammany Regt-42nd NYVI
In my potsdam 2f Swiss 715 ball rolled between wood rasps set in tubes then dipped in musket lube thinned out with a little Crisco can load around 15 shot before I have any problems loading
Jesse
Absolutely NO Alox here. My 1842 Macon seems to shoot rather well with 65gr 3f, ball roughed by farrier file and exposed end double dipped in Lens Lube. Load with lube side to powder, 10+ shots before getting crunchy.
"A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition"
Rudyard Kipling
YadkinValleyRangers@gmail.com
NRA Muzzleloading Instructor
The fouling accumulated near the breech tells me you are using Swiss. In my experimenting, the same fouling ring happened about 6” from the muzzle with plain Goex 3f. It also seemed that it didn’t have anything to do with what and how much lube you use. When I switched to Goex Express, the same as Old Eynsford 3f, the fouling ring went away. I’m of the opinion that the liquid alox turns right into carbon and eventually fouls out the barrel.
I use two farrier’s files and roll the balls until they are a snug slip fit down my Hoyt lined H&P. I got a 6” piece of Bobby’s cutoff to use as a filing gauge. Every round I shoot goes through the gauge before I load it into a tube. I load them dry with no lube and can get about 20 shots without noticeable fouling. The last shot loads about the same as the second one, and not all that different from the first one.
(I also have a 30” Macon with a Hoyt barrel that uses the same projectiles.)
Bob Anderson
Company C, 1st Michigan Volunteer Infantry
Small Arms Committee
"I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a hand on.
I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."
- John Wayne in "The Shootist", 1976
I shoot 70 grains 3F Goex, and also have noticed the "fouling ring" during shooting. Not sure exactly where it is in the bore, though I think it's closer to the muzzle for me.
Anyway I tried shooting them rough, rough+alox, and non-rough, and without lube things got crunchier faster.
I don't think Alox is a particularly good lube in this application and I don't think it is intended to function as lube so much as a windage-eater for the ball while in the bore.
I've not experimented with using actual lube with round balls but it seems a messy proposition to me. I don't have any problems getting through N-SSA competitions with rough Alox balls.
Steve
Thank you everyone. Mailemaker I think you are on the 4th LA and hopefully I'll see you soon. I have been shooting Swiss 3 F in my smoothbore. I tried to get the kind of Old Eynsford blackpowder but couldn't for the upcoming skirmish. I'll order some in the future. Thanks to Lou and others. When I run out of ideas, sometimes this board helps me get more. I should get this ol' smuv bo shooting good. Just give it time. Thanks again everyone.
Last edited by Tom; 02-14-2018 at 11:50 AM.
Never had anything but bad results with alox and black powder. I rough my SB balls with 2 farrier raps after filing off sprue. Learned from Dom (RIP) to rough em up alot and simply use axel grease for lube. I can shoot my .710 roughed, greased ball in my Potsdam all day with no problem. Fast, easy, accurate & not as messy as you'd think, but I use 'dog bone' double ended tubes, one end powder, one end ball, so there is no wasted powder on the ball. Using musket lube, I had the problem you described loading hard last 2 inches & wasting a shot.
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